The Talisman
Bijli baba temple of Mahadev,a Shiva Linga is theree |
The ATR was
full, though being a no frill flight but a complimentary breakfast was served, a cold
sandwich, no hot coffee. I had to get up early in the morning to catch this
6.30 morning flight from Delhi. I was feeling sleepy but the beauty of the
hills kept me awake. The plane landed on time in Bhuntar airport of Kullu.
I picked up
my rucksack and walked out of the airport. I had no previous booking but could
get a cheap hotel easily by the side of the airport, it was lean tourist
season. After freshening up ordered breakfast and took a quick power nap after
the breakfast. It was November and winter was setting in. I took out a
pullover, went to the reception and requested for a taxi for the whole day.
I prefer to
travel by SUVs in hilly areas, requested for a Qualis.
Kullu, once
known as Kulanthpitha - "the end of the habitable world",, a
picturesque town on the banks of Beas river. On the east of Kullu lies a broad
mountainous ridge having the village-temples of Bijli Mahadev,
I had no
fixed plan excepting to enjoy the beauty of the hill range. Ramesh the driver
of the Quails suggested Hidamba temple in Manali,yes it is the same Hidamba
wife of Bheem and mother of Ghatotkach. So we proceeded towards Manali. We
finished our aloo paratha lunch midway. We were at the temple by noon. It is a
wooden structure made like pagoda and cached in the forest of Deodars.The wet
smell of the Deodar and the chimes of the temple transported me to another
world. I was mesmerized by the beauty, smell and the sound. The bench by the
side of the temple was quite inviting. I sat down and took a few snaps of the
temple. The plaque indicated that the temple was built in 1553.
Our next
stop was Bijli Mahadeva temple.. The surprising thing about Bijli Mahadev
temple is that the dhwaza sthupa of the temple will attract lightening and
thunder some days and at that time the main shiv ling will be broken into
pieces by the lightening. The priest will reconstruct the shiv ling by using
butter. The temple is perched on a hill on the way back to Kullu from Manali.
We came out of Manali by another road running parallel to Beas River. I asked
the driver to leave me midway to the temple so that I could trek. I never
realized that during that journey the visit to that temple was not destined for
me. After walking up for about one hour I was resting on a stone by the side of
the hilly road. I was enjoying the beauty of Beas flowing below.
Suddenly I heard
a groaning sound from the shrubs behind me. I got up and started walking
towards the the source of the sound. After a few meters I found a small hut,
there were two occupants, a young Lama and an old man of undetermined age. It
is common knowledge that Tibetans have their base in Dharamsala in Himachal, so
I was not surprised in seeing those Tibetans. Seeing me approaching, the young
Lama was perplexed. I could feel that they were in a dire strait but at the
same time they were quite suspicious about me. I addressed them in Hindi,
"Can I help you?"
The old man
was in some deep physical pain but he was the one who replied, "This is my
hut and my friend Dhargey has recently come from Tibet. He could trace me
through our center in Dharamsala. You can see that I am seriously ill."
I was quite
surprised when he told me that the young man who had recently come from Tibet
was his friend. Also I had doubt about that Lama, he could be a fugitive from
China. The old man could sense my doubt and said, "Yes he has escaped from
Tibet and he is not that young as he looks. The place from where he comes
people don't age at the same pace as they do in the planes. Look at me, I have
aged faster because I came here long back with Dalai Lama. The air there is
pure and rarified."
"Is it
Shangri-La the illusive place of James Hilton."
The old man
smiled, "I have heard about that novel, The Lost Horizon."
I offered
them coffee from the flask which I was carrying with me. While they were
relishing the hot coffee I called Ramesh by my mobile.
'Can I take
you to a doctor? I have conveyance with me."
"No
please don't do that. We don't want to put you in trouble."
"Ok,then
tell me where I can drop you, certainly this place is not conducive enough for
you to stay , I can see you are quite weak and also you got to eat. You are not
in a position to cook."
"I will
like to go to Malana ,where some people of my clan are there, but that is about
60 kilometers from here."
"I know
Malana, lot of backpackers from various countries camp there. There is a
permanent establishment of Israelis and I understand they grow illegal Hashhish
.I am also informed that foreign currencies and foreign goods are easily
available there. I think you can get good doctor too."
"Yes i
also know there is a good doctor. It will be a big trouble for you.'
"No
,please don't bother we will drop you and then stay in Manali, will not go back
to Kullu."
I heard the
voice of Ramesh outside the hut. We helped the old man through the forest to
our Qualis and proceeded for Malana.The sun had just set, it was dark and
chilly. I advised Ramesh to drive cautiously in the hilly road.
I kept
looking at the Lama and wondered about the miracle of nature. He was smiling
warmly at me and I could feel positive energy flowing from him to me.
He said
something in a sing song voice to me, he spoke in Tibetan language , I could
not follow him.
The old man
who was lying with his head on the lap of Lama was dosing but he was alert.
He told me
in Hindi, " Dhagey is describing the place from where he has come. He is
quite nostalgic about that. The place is verdant, it is a kind of paradise and
it is hidden deep in Tibet's Himalayas in a gorge. Tucked beneath a mountain
spur at sharp bend of Tsangpo river gorge. It is in the forbidden region of
Pemako.Once a group of American explorer stumbled on our lonely monastery."
I took out
my Black Berry and Googled for Sagrilah,I could get a site which reproduced a newspaper
account of a 1999 expedition done by explorers to a similar place as described
by Dhagey..
I knew that
there have been many attempts by explorers to search for the illusive
Shangri-La, the place described by Dhagey could be one such place. There is lot
of mysticism linked with Tibet. I recalled the vivid description of Tibet in
the book "Seven Years in Tibet" by Heinrich Harrer.
The young
monk looked serene and kept smiling at me and watched with curiosity my action
with my Black Berry. I too smiled back at him and started thinking about the
place described by him.
The young
monk touched my hand ,something strange happened, I was magically transported
to the place described by him.
We were
standing on the mouth of the gorge in the monastery, I was in heavy sheepskin
dress of a gown and body hugging pant, Dhagey was standing next to me. The
mountain peaks were covered with snow, the river below was frozen in November.
A deep sound of group chanting of hymns was wafting from the main hall of the
monastery, the giant Dharmachakra was just at the entrance of the monastery.
Dhagey smiled at me and nudged me to look around. At this high altitude tall
trees were rare but there were patches of garden around.I inhaled the fresh
unpolluted air and felt rejuvenated. My tiredness vanished, I felt fresh.
Strangely I was not able to move around but I could see, feel and smell the
surrounding. All my senses of enjoying beauty were working sharply . I did not
see any other monk coming out of the monastery, it was as though I was a
spectator of the scenes unfolding before me without me being a part of the
divine show. I was suspended between dream and reality. I could not keep track
of time as the canvas was frozen in time. Dhagey smiled mysteriously and
plucked a leaf from a tree and put that in my hand.
With a start
my stance was broken; the young Lama Dhagey was rubbing the forehead of the old
man and nodded at me, as though welcoming me back to the real world. I was
clutching a leaf. I was fresh like I never felt in years; it reminded me of my
younger days when we used to get ready for a football match, eager and fresh. I
put the leaf in my pocket with reverence.
We reached
Malana valley in three hours. There were scattered light in the valley, a heavy
fog had descended could see shadowy figures moving around, the old man asked us
to stop near a shop. Inspite of my protest they got down there and assured me
that they would be fine.
Somehow an
invisible bond had developed between me and Dhagey because of that astral
travel. Dhagey came forward to shake my hand and pressed a Talisman in my palm.
He said something in Tibetan.
The old man
translated, "Go in peace, whenever you are sad the Talisman will give you
solace. With a clear mind you can experience astral travel with the help of the
Talisman."
I watched
them slowly melting in the dark hill side. I could feel the temperature had
dropped below ten degrees. I felt sad, holding the Talisman tight I got in to
the Qualis. We headed for Manali.
I have the
Talisman now, but could never experience the Astral travel as my mind has been
always full of conflicting thoughts. I suppose I have to focus my mind on one
object like one does for meditation and then the Talisman can help me through.
So many times after reading a travel book I tried to transport myself to those
exotic places but failed to utilize the power of the Talisman. Now I must
search for a real guru like Dhagey to guide me through my Astral travel or else
master the meditation techniques to reach the higher level of mind control.
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